Sunday, July 27, 2008

First Impressions with Suunto Core Wristop Computer

I bought a Suunto Core "wristop computer" yesterday and as usual, I wish to write a bit about my first experiences with the device. So far, the compass is very problematic and the temperature meter is useless. The compass is the most important feature for me and it really should work.


Suunto Lumi was my second choise and just fifteen minutes after buying the Core I regretted not buying Lumi instead. Core is HUGE, basicly a UFO strapped to your wrist and distinguishable from at least lower Earth orbits. Lumi is essentially the same device but it's half the size, so it's more of the size of a conventional men's watch. For some strange reason, Lumi is marketed for women. While the Suunto Core marketing talks about traveling in wilderness and scaling mountains, Lumi marketing talks about finding directions in rock festivals. Ok, the wrist strap is a bit ornamental in a feminine way and a regular black strap might be more mannish, but Suunto sells separate straps so that should not be a problem. The only missing features in Lumi are the rotating bevel (it's useful) and the depth meter (very rarely useful). And Lumi is 50 euros more expensive than Core (250 vs 200 euros).

In this article, I will go through the main features.

Construction

As I said, it's HUGE. The only reason that I can think of for the size is that you can use it with the gloves on. Strangely, the Suunto webpages do not advertise this reason. The size is a problem in so many ways. It doesn't really fit under the sleeves and it makes more difficult to don a jacket. As I need the watch when traveling, I don't want my watch to draw the attention of the natives who make 30 euros a month and the watch worth their six months salary (not that my pro-looking camera equipment draw any attention). On the other hand, I wish I had had the watch when I went snorkling in the coral reefs at Keys. Anyhow, I would have preferred Suunto Lumi.


Despite the size the watch is really light. The size is apparently just empty space and not because the electronics require that much space. It's not light enough to float though - I tried. The wrist strap is a bit gelatine-like material and it's somewhat difficult to open the lock. You can not adjust the strap, or more accurately, you have to adjust it every time you put it on your wrist. There are so many holes that it's not easy to know which one is the best. Because of the gelatinish material, the skin under the strap sweats like a pig. The reason to have a metal wrist strap is not that it looks pretty but because it conducts heat.

Another problem with the strap is that it's positioned so that it is not possible to put the watch on a table surface (see the figure below). This makes use and especially calibration of the compass very very very difficult, because the compass must be leveled very precisely. Also, the back-side of the watch is nowhere near flat. It also makes setting compass direction on a map much more difficult. Have the designers actually used the watch?


Some people at Suunto discussion forums complained about too loose or tight compass bezels. The rotation stiffness of my bezel is excellent, but in small scale the bezel is loose and moves even if you touch is only lightly. The bezel has 60 steps so for compass purposes the steps are 6 degrees. Unfortunately, the compass scale is not written in the bezel and it only has letters indicating the cardinal directions. Some other models have a scale.

The glass is mineral glass and it is a good thing that it is not plastic as most cell phone displays are. Plastic displays scratch really easily and they are full of scratches in a year or two. The most scratch-resistant glasses are the sapphire-coated ones, but ordinary mineral glass is usually enough. The surface is convex and looks good. If you end up stranded in an island, there's no point in removing the glass and using it as a burning lens to light your campfire, as you can just use the reflection for the same purpose (if it only was reflectively coated). Oh well.

The Clock

The clock is such a basic functionality that it is hard to screw it very badly. I have not used the watch long enough to say how well it keeps time. At first, I thought that the watch lost time very fast (10 seconds per day), only to notice that it was my computer's clock that lost time. When comparing to accurate time, the Core seems to have gained about 3 seconds in 4 days, which is not good, but I'm again not certain that I set the time correctly in the first place.

The clock has a number of views: just time (hh:mm), time and date, time (hh:mm) plus seconds, time (hh:mm) plus time at a secondary timezone, time plus sunset/sunrise times, timer, countdown timer. Why are there so many views with just minor differences? What's the use of showing just time and not date or seconds? Why isn't there a view that shows all time (hh:mm:ss) and date in one view?

The only really annoying thing is the countdown timer. I need such a timer almost daily for foodmaking purposes. Setting the countdown time requires that you gough the menu: click Menu (2s) - select time-date (2 clicks) - select countdown (2 clicks). Then you can set the countdown time. Why can't you just set the countdown time in the watch view?

The Altitude Meter / Barometer

The altimeter in Suunto Core is supposed to have resolution of one meter. I haven't been able to measure this very accurately yet, but it seems believable. I used the altimeter in one measurement to measure the relative height of two pillars 400 meters apart and it gave constant readings within some 2 meters. The problems are in calibration. Core allows you to calibrate the altimeter in two ways: by a known altitude or by local atmospheric pressure at sea level, which you can get from weather stations.

The problem with the calibration by the atmospheric pressure is that Suunto Core allows setting the pressure with the resolution of one hPa, but the difference of one hPa is 27 meters in altitude! Weather stations give the pressure with one decimal. The advertised one meter altitude accuracy means that Core should be able to measure pressure with about 0,03 hPa resolution, so why can't I calibrate it even with one decimal?

Another problem with the altimeter and barometer mode is that it's a lot of work to switch between them. Switching between them through the menu (which requires 2s press to open) takes 10 button clicks in all. Not very easy! There is an "automatic mode" though, which should have the altitude meter on when the pressure changes fast (i.e. when you're moving vertically), and barometer on when you're stationary, but it takes a few (2-3) minutes to switch to the altitude mode and a lot longer (15-30 minutes) to switch back to the barometer mode.


The altiude/barometer mode also shows the temperature. Unfortunately, the body temperature affects the reading strongly, so when you're wearing the watch in your (naked) wrist, it will show 30-33°C if real temperature is 20-30°C. I did a small experiment: digital thermometer shows 28,9°C and Core shows 30°C. I put the watch in my wrist and wait 5 minutes. It will show 32°C. So, it's basicly useless when you're wearing it. Taking it off doesn't help very quickly and it takes maybe 15-30 minutes to stabilize. I would really have expected that the watch would compensate for the body temperature at least a bit, possibly by measuring the temperatures from back, middle and front sides of the watch and extrapolating the temperature. Or just by using a thermometer that measures the air temperature with infrared or something. I suppose there might not be a perfect solution, but currently it's just bad.

The Compass

The compass has been nearly useless so far, because it's highly sensitive about tilting and loses calibration all the time. So, while the specs say that it should be accurate to 1 degree, I would say that it's accurate to maybe 180 degrees, because you never know when it has lost the calibration completely or just partially. It doesn't need to be accurate to one degree and some 5° would be acceptable, but now the accuracy is much worse.

The compass is really the most important feature of the watch for me. I need it for urban orienteering when I'm traveling and for rough directions for amateur astronomical purposes. For example, I want to know the rough direction of the Sun or the Moon or some planet or a star that I see in the horizon. When I'm gazing for satellites and there's a predicted satellite flash at a certain time, I need to know the exact direction where it will show. If I see a meteor (or even a fireball), I need to be able to estimate its radiant. At night, I can usually see the directions from the stars very easily, but in daytime or in dusk I really can't. Finding Venus or Mercury from the sky during daytime requires knowing the exact direction.

Occasionally, I get happy when the reading looks reasonable, but then I realize that it's the same as a dead wall clock being correct twice a day. Typically, the error is about 20-50 degrees, so in a real situation, you would not really know that there's something badly wrong. For note, I have calibrated the declination, and it's not huge anyhow (+6.5°), so it's not that. Reading the direction at one place can give steady readings, but fifteen minutes later it gives totally different readings. Sometimes the compass goes to an oversensitive state in which, if I turn 90 degrees, the reading changes 180 degrees.

The problem may be that the compass loses its calibration very easily and needs to be recalibrated, in practice every time you use it. The watch doesn't actually allow recalibrating the compass the same way as it was calibrated on the first use. The manual says that you can recalibrate it just by rotating it slowly around for a full circle, but this method is a bit uncertain as the watch doesn't actually indicate when it has been recalibrated. The watch needs to be kept exactly leveled during calibration, but the badly shaped wrist strap (see above) makes it impossible to level the watch on a flat surface, so you need for example a bottle to put it on. But you can't carry a table and a bottle around the world in your backback, can you?

The User's Manual says that the compass must be held leveled with the ground for it to be accurate. That' s an accurate statement, even if the compass is not. Tilting the watch even slightly can change the compass reading radically, so that a 1° tilt can sometimes cause 2-3° error in the reading. Sometimes, possibly if calibrated better, the compass is less sensitive to tilting and behaves even reasonably well. The manual says that the watch would warn about tilting (Finnish manual says - English doesn't), but it doesn't give any warning for me however much I tilt or not tilt the watch. I've experimented a lot with this.

The sensitivity to tilting creates a practical problem: leveling is not easy. You can level the watch most accurately by looking at it horizontally against the horizont, but then you can't read the compass reading without lowering it. The watch isn't really designed to be held leveled. The wrist strap prevents from actually putting the watch on table. I've found a cardboard tube from an empty toilet paper roll to be useful for leveling the watch.

Pressing the light button creates a really weird light show: the light goes off and on about two times a second so it's flashes quite annoyingly. The display font in the compass mode is really ugly.

Other

A hint for Finnish buyers: Kello- ja kultaliike Suominen in Turku sells these for 200 euros while other places demand 250. Also the price for Lumi is 50 euros cheaper than elsewhere.

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Disappointment with Sony Handycam Software

I purchased Sony SR-12 in April 2008. I have earlier written about my first impressions and compared the camcorder with my previous Sony camcorder. So far, I have been busy just filming my travels and left watching and editing for later time. One reason for this is that I'm practically unable to watch any of the videos that I have recorded. The SR-12 comes with no less than three Windows utilities:
  • Handycam Utility - to copy videos to computer and DVDs
  • AVCHD Player - to play video from the cam or from DVD
  • Picture Motion Browser - to organize, edit and publish videos
All of them fail in some respect and are terribly problematic.

If you like stories of frustration, hopelessness, anger, and an occasional burst of masochistic laugh, read on.

Handycam Utility

The Handycam Utility is the software that pops up when you plug a USB cable into your camcorder. In theory, it allows you to watch videos from the camera, copy them to your computer, or to create DVDs from the videos. It fails miserably in most of these tasks. Let us go through the functionalities of the utility.

Video Playback (AVCHD Player)

You can launch the AVCHD Player from the Handycam Utility or from the desktop icon. The player allows you to watch videos from the camcorder either from the camcorder or from AVCHD DVDs. This is really what you would expect. The player has, however, a few problems. Probably the most annoying one is that it pauses for about a half a second between each shot. This is especially annoying if your shots are very short. You don't get that on TV, you don't get that on DVD, you don't get that when you play back the recordings on the small screen of the camcorder, so why do you get it on this player? Actually, the two other player softwares that come with the camcorder have the same problem, but the delay is much bigger in them.

Another problem is that once you start the player, it starts indexing the shots on the camcorder. Indexing one shot takes about 3-5 seconds. I myself take usually well over 1000 shots during a week's travel, so indexing the shots takes about 4000 seconds, that is, over an hour. Currently, I have some 3000 clips stored on the camera, so indexing would take about 4 (four) hours. That's every time you start the player, as it doesn't remember the index. The speed is a bit strange as the copy-to-pc functionality of Handycam Utility indexes the pictures maybe twenty times faster.

Third problem is that the clips are shown 6 (six) clips a page on the screen. You can click on arrow symbols on a page to change to the next page, but with my 3000 clips, it means 3000/6=500 screens! So if I want to get to a page somewhere midway, I have to click the arrow 250 times. No worry, changing page takes maybe 0,5 seconds so it "only" takes some two minutes to get there. This absurdity makes it certain that the developers of the software have never themselves used the software, not at least with their own camera. Or they only record very very long clips, half an hour and so. "Oh, we have tested the program with a large number of clips, twenty!"

There is also a problem regarding video quality. Sony SR-12 is supposed to record 30 frames/s. I dare to say that the player plays maybe half of that. The problem is clearly visible when someone walks on the screen. The playback is far smoother when you play it from the camcorder to TV, or in Linux after conversion.

You can also use the AVCHD Player to play AVCHD DVDs that you can burn with the utilities. The problem with DVD playback is that the DVD index shows the clips by date. Typically, you have just one day in the DVD, so the DVD index has just one item. The problem is that you can easily record 200 shots a day (that's my average when traveling), but the software does not have an index to allow you to jump to a certain shot easily. You just need to click the Forward button 200 times to get to the end. Changing to the next clip is not immediate, so it can take a few minutes to get to the end. It's really frustrating.

PC Backup

The PC Backup functionality allows you to copy your videos from the camcorder to your PC. That's handy. My problem with the program is that I have only 20 GB disk space on my laptop (I have a 80 GB disk but I have reserved 60 GB for Linux). Windows Vista takes about 18 GB, so I have just 2 GB free, while I need tens of GBs to store my videos. This should not be a problem, as I have a 120 GB USB disk that I can attach to my laptop. The utility actually allows me to configure the folder where the videos are stored. All good? No. After I change the folder to my external USB disk and click the Ok button...it fails and leaves the target folder unchanged. I have tried everything, but it completely refuses to make the "PC Backup" to a USB disk attached to my PC.

One Touch Disc Burn

This feature allows you to burn all the videos on your camcoder to an AVCHD format disk. Well, ok, virtually no DVD player plays AVCHD disks, but I knew that beforehand, so I can't complain. My main purpose anyhow in burning such DVDs is to get backups.

The problem is that the utility can only burn everything on the camcorder to DVDs. There's no option to start from a certain disk or a certain date or anything. You can only burn all or nothing. That would not be a problem if it was just one disk, but if you have, say, 80 GB (6 hours) of recordings on your camcorder, burning them all takes 20 DVDs. You can burn them in just one go, so if there was a problem at some point, you have to burn everything from the beginning. And if you go out and shoot more, you have to burn the earlier 20 DVDs again. Really.

The functionality is even more problematic because it is a bit slow, to say the least. Burning a DVD takes a bit over 10 minutes. So, burning 20 DVDs takes 200 minutes or 3 h 20 m. Plus time to change the disk, of course. So, please remember to have to plug in the power cord to your camera before recording, because otherwise your battery will go empty and you'll have to begin again...

Camcorder Issues with SR-12

One horribly serious problem with Sony SR-12 is that it doesn't store any unique number for the video clips. The name of a video file stored on the hard drive of the camcorder is just a sequential number starting from 1. If you remove a video from the middle, all the numbers of the later files are reduced by one. So, if you clean up files on your camcorder, you have to remove them all at once.

The camcorder actually stores the date and time when you shot the clip as the modification time of the file. So you could order the clips by date? Not possible, because if you edit a video on the camera and, say, split it in two, the split files will have modification time of the editing operation. Of course...

Linux Issues


I use Linux 97% of time and only use Windows for playing some games. Unfortunately, the Sony camcorder utilities are not available for Linux. The camera itself is just a USB memory, so by just plugging it in, I can easily copy the video clips from the camcorder to my computer. The problem is in actually watching them as no Linux video player currently supports the M2TS video format. No problem, there are ways to convert the M2TS format to formats that I can play on Linux. The problem is that so far, all there ways have failed for me.

The article Transcoding MTS/M2TS AVCHD Video Into AVI Files with Free Software provides excellent instructions for transcoding regular HD (not FullHD) M2TS AVCHD video files to H.264 AVI. I did not enjoy the shell scripts so I wrote a very similar Python script for my purposes.

So far, the ffmpeg solution either loses audio altogether or has severe audio synchronization problems. Ffmpeg doesn't have built-in scaling, but I would want to scale my videos to PAL 720x572 resolution or some other resolution lower than FullHD's 1920x1080. Regular YUV image conversion utilities would do, but using them is a bit cumbersome.

Mencoder provides another solution and works much better. Audio is ok and I'm able to scale the video as I like. The problem is that the resulting video is "jumpy": movement of people is not even but looks somehow rushed. This is probably because of "duplicate frames" that occur during the conversion. Both the input and output are 30 frames/second so there should not be problems with that, but there probably is some .

I had a really well-working video editing path with my old Sony DV camera, with dvgrab utility for grabbing the video data and Kino for editing it. I really would like to reach that same level with my new Sony.

Summary

The software that comes with Sony SR-12 camcorder is, to a large degree, unusable for the typical use for which you would expect it to work. SR-12 is not a low-end beginner model, but while definitely not a professional, it is a low-end prosumer model. As such, you expect some usability from the software. A prosumer can expectedly take thousands of video clips and wants to store, convert and edit the clips and use some video editing software to make amateus movies. However, even the basic functionalities are severely lacking.

I certainly hope that Sony comes with major updates for the Handycam Utility software. Otherwise the problems with the software make the camcorder themselves unusable.